Not that we want to leave Shetland....but....

 July 3rd

Today we left for Toft on the mainland, drove to Ulsta ferry port in Yell and joined lane 6 for unbooked vehicles. In front was one car and a motorbike. 

The ferry was already in and waiting to load vehicles but the barrier was still across and no vehicles were allowed on for another 15 minutes. We watched as more cars arrived, then a bus and then a lorry. All were in the booked lanes. The hope of getting on was being reduced as more vehicles arrived. 10.45 am the barriers opened and the loading started. With hardly a space to be seen, how lucky when we were beckoned forward and slotted between the lorry and the side. 

 

Although there was room to get out, we both stayed in MB for the 15-minute journey to Toft.  Back on the mainland the rain started and stayed with us for the rest of the day. We wondered what to do and decided on the Eshaness lighthouse. Despite the rain, what a wild and fantastic place to be. The cagoules went on, woolly hats too because not only was it cold, but that wind was enough to blow one over the cliff edge! We walked for about a mile. Wanted to go much further to the blow holes but the incesent driving rain was getting beyond a joke.

So back to MB and straight onto the phone to Northlink Ferries. One decision was made while talking and walking, we wanted to get off Shetland and head to Orkney.

Thirty minutes of hanging on with that annoying message 'Your call is important and will be answered as soon as possible' before finally someone answered. Then the realisation that all ferries were booked and advised to keep our original booking for next Wednesday. It was mentioned that if we turn up at the ferry terminal on Friday at 4 pm, and if there was a cancellation, we may get lucky. Im not holding my breath!

So now we have no idea what to do for the next week. If the weather had been decent, plenty of walks and even sitting on the beach would be welcome. We have about done everything in Shetland that interests us apart from walking across St Ninian's Beach, a large natural sand causeway with sea on either side. Revisiting Sumburgh Head to see if the Puffins are feeding their young will probably keep us occupied for several hours too but other than that... Oh and we ruled out the Noss boat trip because of the weather!

We walked how far?

 July 2nd

Yippee...the sun was out, it felt much warmer, and finally some decent weather. Today we set ourselves a challenge. Walk to the Gannet colony at Saito. It meant a 4.5-mile round trip through the Hermaness National Nature Reserve.

Loads of painkillers were taken by us both, backpack packed with waterproofs and water bottles and by 10 am we set off.

The trail was varied with firm gravel, boardwalk and grassy sections. We had to trek up two steep slopes and one flight of steps but generally, the going was good. We stopped several times to admire the views and when an angry Dunlin decided we had got too near to it's nest and kept up an alarm call, I must have taken a zillion of photos. (Just the two you'll be pleased to see)

A  junction had us wondering which way should we choose. Left to the Gannets or right to Muckle Flugga, the most Northern lighthouse in the UK. As far as distance was concerned, no difference so Gannets it was.

Finally we made it to the cliffs. The view was amazing, which got even better with a walk up toward Neap. You could even see Muckle Flugga. (lighthouse)

Skua

The last section toward Saito was very windy and extremely smelly. It didn't take rocket science to show how near to the Gannets we were. Ian nearly lost his woolly hat so strong was the gusts. The Gannets were everywhere but Great Skua, Fulmars, and the occasional Puffin were also seen flying around the cliff edge

The walk back didn't take as long but we were both thankful for the sticks. Going down had always been problematic for us. We came across two Great Skua's, they appeared to have a nest in the moorland grass and ever aware that being dive-bombed by these birds could hurt, we kept well away.

Skua

Back at MB, Ian did a time check. To do the 4 miles took 2 hours 15 minutes and to say we were euphoric that we had achieved this long walk was an understatement. Neither of us had walked more than a couple of miles in ages, it has made us even more determined to continue in the same vain.

After a well-earned coffee, we headed for the Viking Longboat and house. Having passed it in the pouring rain yesterday and refusing to get out and be drenched, it was great to see them both in the dry.

A little further along the road was Bobby's Bus Shelter. This from Shetland Island of opprtunity

The Bus Shelter which has now become a focal point for locals and visitors alike, sporting a different and imaginative theme every year, was created by local boy Bobby McCauley when he was at school on the island. Bobby, who lived nearby, growing tired of the often long, cold and wet waits in the morning took matters into his own hands and wrote a letter to the local newspaper requesting a new shelter for him to wait in.

The shelter was duly built and, soon after, a sofa appeared… and a table… a microwave… and a carpet. Before long, the humble bus shelter was a warm and welcoming place with its very own visitors' book for those seeking refuge and a place to rest

Our last destination before getting the ferry back to Yell was Muness Castle. We passed this stone on the way, completely out of place in this landscape. Must be a reason for it being there.

The castle was brilliant. Very dark inside and on leaving noticed a cupboard by the information board with torches for public use. Shame we hadn't seen them until we got out. Still, being as dark as it was inside, helped with the atmosphere. 

We left for the ferry. On arrival, gosh, what a queue for Yell. We joined lane one, those without a booking, and prepared to wait. And wait we did. Two ferries came and went before we finally got on the third. We decided to spend the night on Yell and found this wonderful small car park next to a beach at West Sandwick. Tomorrow we leave for Shetland again, we have another week on the island and in truth, are wondering what else there is to see. I know we want to go back to Sumburgh Head and there is a wildlife boat trip on the Noss Boat that we are considering. That is to be decided as the weather (surprise, surprise) is set to turn wet again!

 

Island hopping

 July 1st

 I'm still suffering, I was a fool to think I would get better in a day! So back to painkillers again, and light meals. With so little time on the island, I have to grin and bear it.

The Toft ferry to Yell wasn't until 11.20 am. From the overnight stop, it was but a 10-minute drive. Of course, our arrival was much too soon and a row of cars were already waiting for the earlier ferry at 10:30 am.  We parked in a waiting lane and soon the cars started boarding. Then surprise, surprise, we were beckoned to come forward, they had room for us at the back.

It was roughly a 20-minute crossing to Yell, I wanted to go to the upper deck but decided to wait until after we paid for the ferry. Because we were last on, stood to reason the chap collecting fares wouldn't come to us first so I never did get to go on the viewing deck.

Once we disembarked, it was a 30-minute drive to get to Gutcher port for the onward journey to Unst. We dallied and arrived just in time to see that ferry leave.

 

We had to stop to admire the views.

The ferry service runs continuallly so there was only a short wait before getting onto the next one. Only 6 cars, 1 lorry and us, obviously not a busy time of year for them.

Took only 10 minutes this time, landing on Unst we stopped at the first convenient place for lunch and take stock of where we would go to first.

As been our lot since arriving on Shetland, the weather deteriated rapidly. Mist rolled in, visibility was bad, hardly sightseeing weather. A white figuer standing by the side of the road caught my attention. I yelled at Ian to stop and thankfully no cars behind us. He had failed to see what I had but I made him reverse back. And there she was looking like a white apperition, The White Wife of Watlee.

 We drove to the Saza Vord Space Port. Ian was very interested in seeing quite how they were going  to launch the UK’s first vertical rocket into orbit. This from BBC News

The Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) has granted a ‘range licence’ to the Scottish spaceport, which will allow the company to control the sea and airspace during launch.

It will also ensure a clear and safe path for any rockets heading into space and ensures the safety of those on the ground.

And this from SCOTLANDIS

It will be the first fully-licensed spaceport in Western Europe able to launch vertically into orbit.

It permits up to 30 launches a year, that will be used to take satellites and other payload into space.

The site, which is the first spaceport in Scotland, has a number of launch operators around the world currently developing rockets

  The lanes on the Unst were narrow with passing places, we found what we were looking for, turned into another lane and found our way blocked by barriers. Blast! No public was allowed on site. Hmm, we should have realised how sensitive this development was. A disappointed Ian, and, in a way so was I, a sign had been seen for  Hagdale Horse Mill, yep, that would do as an alternative. Again down a narrow lane, we were scuppered because the carpark at the end was being dug up. We managed to turn and then saw the sign that mentioned a 3-mile round hike to the quarry. Even if I had been able, (Diverticulitis) the wind and rain would stop even the most hardy of walkers. Shame really because it sounded interesting. Never mind just another thing struck off the list.

With nothing much to see due to the conditions, we decided to find somewhere to stop overnight. At a place called Burrafirth overlooking a bay was ideal. Right next to the start of Hermanus Nature Reserve, could this be somewhere for us tomorrow? We did have some animal life turn up, it was only sheep though. 

 

 

The view from where we parked were pretty decent, well what we can see of it anyway!

Throw a stone from the Atlantic Ocean and make a splash in the North Sea.

Groan, woke with that familiar pain on the left side of my abdomen. I knew what it was, a Diverticular flare up! Fluids for me then for the rest of the day. I took a Panadol, that killed the pain and declined Ian's offer to stay on this site. No, we had stuff to do, and places to go and I would not be swayed. So it was late morning before we set off. No plans other than to see the West side of the Island.

 We had been told about the Cake Fridge at Bixter.   It was the first of its kind in Shetland, starting from humble beginnings of offering eggs and produce to passers by,  an honesty box was by the side. It still remains today and is restocked daily.

 

 

We went inside the cafe. Ian ordered a a cheese roll, I could have had parsnip and curry soup which I love but only clear liquids allowed. Mind you I did have a cup of tea! At the back of the menu was this.

 Then there were all the lovely homemade cakes to choose from. I chose a slice of plain Coffee cake, Ian a slice of Chocolate After Eight cake, and just as we were about to pay, from the kitchen came an Orange and Chocolate sponge cake. Well, with those other cakes purchased for tomorrow, Ian's eyes lit up. So a slice of that joined the other two.

Chatting to the lady behind the counter she told us that it was her and her sister (owner) that made all the cakes. We sat at a small table in a longish room which was actually the original bedroom, it was no bigger than a slightly larger single room in a modern house. The joining wall had been removed and the parlour would have been about the same size. We were amazed to learn that her gran and grandad, mum and dad, and the two sisters all lived in that house and shared the only bedroom. The building to the back was built at a later date.

 

 

So that were two things seen on Shetland that were 'Hidden Gems'. This one and the Out Post. If we hadn't been told about these from Norman's son, we would never have known. So for those who are thinking of visiting Shetland, please make the effort to visit. You wont be disappointed.

Driving along the narrow lanes with passing places, the landscape changed to one of lochs and peat bogs. There was quite a bit of peat cutting in evidence.

A large sign caught our attention.

 And a brown board with Mavis Grind written on it. We stopped for a look. Water was either side of  a small strip of land. The road ran right through the middle. It merited closer inspection especially as an information board was seen higher up. My goodness! Talk about knocking me down with a feather. Read below to see why.

Top, North Sea. Bottom, Atlantic Ocean

Panoramic View. Left, North Sea and Right, Atlantic Ocean.

Shetland so far has not disappointed (apart from the weather). It was getting late so we started toward Toft. Tomorrow we cross to Yell and then onto Unst but first we had to find somewhere to stop. A lovely hidden layby overlooking an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean was found. Its still blooming cold and I'm pill popping pain killers every four hours. Hopefully tomorrow the weather will warm up and I start to feel better.

And seen on route

And wildlife today

Red throated Diver