About Us

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In 1977 we hired our first narrowboat from Anglo Welsh at Market Harborough. From that moment our destiny was set. In 2006 we finally purchased our own brand new 57' narrowboat which we named 'Free Spirit'. Our aim is to travel the length and breadth of all the navigable rivers and canals of the UK. This will be our story as it unfolds.

Sunday, 26 April 2026

We cross the border

 

April 24th

It was another day of all travelling together because today we would cross the border into Botswana, and Kobus wanted to make sure none of us had any issues. 8 am was the departure time, and we left slightly earlier to top up with diesel at the nearby garage. The distance to travel to reach the campgrounds at Sherwood was 331km, and Kobus estimated about 4 hours drive. But best laid plans and all that, because the timings were for decent roads, and here in South Africa, one takes pot luck if the road is tarmacked or dirt! Road number was R572 and looked to be a decent road on the map, but not long after joining it, the tarmac ran out, and the dirt began. There was no respite from being thrown around, and the ridge corrugations meant speed had to be reduced considerably. Pot holes were another issue, and the longing for tarmac became an obsession. Then the road smoothed somewhat; a grader had been along to shave off those corrugations, again short-lived because we spied the tractors in the distance. For 70 km, we travelled this road at a speed not much above 60 km/h, and it was only once we reached Swartwater that tarmac returned.




 

The last leg to the border was speedily achieved, 60km taking about 40 minutes, yep, everyone had the same idea to just get a move on.

We stopped before the border. Kobus had warned us all that meat and some dairy were not permitted to enter Botswana, and he suggested we hide any we may have with us. Ian found a hidy hole in the kitchen cupboard; there was a removable shelf with a gap big enough for our milk, cheese and chicken. We also hid the Mayo just in case!

Kobus had also mentioned that trucks and lorries would be parked up waiting to enter Botswana. He told us to go past and not be intimidated by any of them if they got angry. Well, I couldn’t believe the number of trucks waiting. 6 km queue and some would be waiting days! Turns out those who can bribe the officials will get dealt with faster. As for those who won't give a bribe, they are processed very slowly, hence a very long wait! Consequently, there are very few poor officials at the border! 


 

Anyway, we got through without any problem, had to go through security, get passports stamped and submit the necessary paperwork to be allowed in. Kobus had done a good job in making sure all our forms were correct. It was then a matter of paying over 580 pula (Botswana currency) for the road tax, which worked out to be about £32. We were again stopped at the immigration area. Here we expected our motorhomes to be searched, but we just got waved through instead! One more step to do before we crossed into Botswana, use the foot dip and drive through disinfectant. 



 

Free to go, we set off on our own, thinking we knew where to go. The campsite was nearby, and we felt sure we would have no trouble finding it. Wrong! 10 km out of our way, again passing trucks waiting to enter South Africa, and we realised we had got it wrong. I managed to find the address, we turned round and headed back, only for the sat nav to take us through an area full of those waiting trucks, some actually blocking the main road. 

 Talk about stressful, we were getting some very dirty looks and would those trucks let us pass? Would they heck! I was beginning to get panicky until suddenly a very nice truck driver helped one of the trucks to reverse to let us through…phew. So we made it to camp. Most of our fellow travellers were already on site, but none were very pleased. The designated field for us was waterlogged, the only area where we safely stayed mud-free had no power, and only by complaining to the receptionist did they allow some of us to stop where the chalets were. Sockets on the outside wall were offered to us. Ian had one look and would have condemned them on sight. Health and safety play no part in this part of the country, so it seems!

 


j

 Our milk and cheese were retrieved and stored back in the fridge, and then we opted for a walk. This camp was right on the banks of the Limpopo River, with the possibility of seeing hippos and crocodiles. Unfortunately, with so much rain these last few days, the river was swollen and not a croc or hippo to be seen. Oh well…you win some, you lose some.




 And today's photos





Another mode of transport to work

Toll cost £2.74


 

Friday, 24 April 2026

A road closure was not good news

 April 23rd

First decent night's sleep, no rain, just high winds which didn't bother us at all. No rocking and rolling, we were very sheltered, so both of us awoke refreshed. No early start, we could leave when ready as our destination was Tshipies, just for one night and a great place, according to Kobus, to have a traditional Braai (BBQ)

Today's journey should have been straightforward: 4 hours of driving, and we could leave when we wanted. By 8 am, everything had been stowed away, so we decided to leave slightly early to stop for a shop. Little did we realise the journey that was to come. 

I was baffled as to how some of the workers ever got to their place of work on time because many stood on the side of the road trying to cadge a lift. The arm would go up as a car appeared, and the hope was for a car to stop. Many did, probably a given thing over here; its such a relaxed country.




A different mode of transport
 
The first leg of the journey was good, and we made decent time. The weather was dull, the odd spot of rain, but other than that, okay. Along the route, we whizzed past these magnificent falls. Ian slammed on the brakes and reversed back. Good job, the road was devoid of vehicles! 

 
It was as we neared Louis Tirchardt that we met with a road closure. No detour signs, we just had to wing it. 


 
So we followed the cars and lorries, I kept looking to see if another route was available, of course, there was not! This detour took us over 40km out of our way before rejoining the N1.  The road was full of potholes with speed bumps at every small settlement and lorries that only did about 50km an hour. The lines of cars in front and behind these lorries were immense. went on for the whole 40 km, and several cars nearly got wiped out trying to overtake the long line. It was mayhem! 
 




School kids on both sides of the road. How they wernt hit by those overtaking cars was sheer luck!

 
By the time we eventually got back onto the road we wanted, 2 more hours had passed. If we thought we had been hard done by, we should have thought again because the closure of such a major road also affected the traffic going South. In fact, nothing was moving; the Police had stopped all traffic from turning onto the so-called diversion, probably because the road was not suitable for two lorries to pass each other. I did wonder why not much traffic was coming toward us! 
 
 

Anyway, we had another 60 km to go, and Ian's foot went down on the accelerator to try and make up lost time. Eventually, the site at Tshipire was reached by 3,30pm. What should have taken us 4 hours ended up being over 7 hours.
Entering the site

Our parking spot

Kobus and Deidre arrived after us, and the first thing they did was to set up the Braai. The rest of the convoy arrived in dribs and drabs; the very last to arrive was Iain and Vennesa, having got completely lost by heading off in the wrong direction, and they turned up after 7pm! By now, the Braai was well underway, and chairs and drinks had been brought from the motorhomes. Fillet steak and chicken cooked by Kobus and Ryan (mechanic), and Deidre prepared a traditional dessert of Malva Pudding


Kobus
 




It was a brilliant night, warm and not many mozzies about (I had spread extensively every exposed part of me to stop the blighters), and Kobus reckons we should do it again, but this time by us guests! Lots were drawn to see who was with whom. I teamed up with Mareen (a vet), Helen, and Jill. We now have to decide on a main meal for everyone as well as desert and the only stipulation is that all must be cooked on a Braai.

And today's photos 












Good use of Pylons. Bird nests


Massive nest built by the sociable weaver bird

 

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