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In 1977 we hired our first narrowboat from Anglo Welsh at Market Harborough. From that moment our destiny was set. In 2006 we finally purchased our own brand new 57' narrowboat which we named 'Free Spirit'. Our aim is to travel the length and breadth of all the navigable rivers and canals of the UK. This will be our story as it unfolds.

Sunday, 27 November 2016

Historic town and a Volcanic walk.

Having paid for another night stay at this caravan park, it was to Port Fairy we went first. This is a fascinating small town and I have put in a brief history of the place.

In the early 19th century whalers and seal hunters used the coast in this region. The bay was named by the crew of the whaler The Fairy in 1828. John Griffiths established a whaling station in 1835 and a store was opened in 1839. In 1843, James Atkinson, a Sydney solicitor, purchased land in the town by special survey.  He drained the swamps, subdivided and leased the land, and built a harbour on the Moyne River. He named the town "Belfast" after his hometown in Ireland. The post office opened on 1 July 1843 (the post office actually opened in 1837as "Port Fairy" but was renamed "Belfast" on 1 January 1854 before reverting to the original name on 20 July 1887.) Agriculture developed in the region, and Belfast became an important transport hub. By 1857 the town had a population of 2,190. In the mid-to-late 19th century, Belfast was one of Australia's largest ports, catering to the whaling industry. In 1887 the town was renamed Port Fairy as a result of an Act of Parliament. 

Baffled by the zero miles to Belfast on the milepost below, reading the above inscription it all became very clear.








Port Fairy has a rich history and 50 buildings are protected by the National Trust of Australia.


This building is unique in that a central chimney services both buildings.



Bottom right is Emoh

River Moyne


A walk to Rabbit/Griffiths Island

The Port Fairy Lighthouse was built in 1859 on what was then Rabbit Island. This later became part of Griffith Island. The light is 41 feet above high watermark and its visibility to seaward is 12 miles.


Took a couple of hours to walk around the town admiring the buildings and walking to the lighthouse. Also on nearby Griffiths Island, a breeding colony of the short-tailed shearwater or Australian muttonbird could have been seen. We didn't see any (apart from several dead fledgelings) and assumed the breeding season was over. A small market was also going on and we cast diets to the wind and purchased sausage rolls and hot dogs. Then it was back for a walk or rather trek, around Tower Hill a huge 4km wide 80 m high inactive volcano.

View from the approach road just off the highway,
Down to the visitor centre, we parked and choose to climb the high peak path first. Blooming 'eck it was a tough climb. Lots of steps and some of those slopes were almost 1 in 4's. Worth it in the end though 'cos the views were fabulous.



This was one hell of a climb!
Going down was even worse! Not sure-footed at the best of times I was glad of the handrail on certain sections of the descent but the gravel bits with the loose stones were a nightmare.
Back to the visitor centre a hot tea to recover first before doing another 1km walk to the Last Crater. This time it was all gravel paths and the climbs even more of a challenge. On the rim, we couldn't get a good look at the crater because of the trees and it was a shame the sun wasn't out. I reckon the crater pool would have looked stunning with the sunlight on it.

Apparently, the last crater to be formed at Tower-hill.
On the way back and all around were signs of Echidna scratchings. Looking for insects this is a sure sign they are in the area. Then, nearly back to the visitor centre...bingo...a foraging Echidna!   We were able to creep up to it and get some fabulous footage on the camcorder and camera.

So to another history lesson. The Echidna is covered in fur and spines and has a distinctive snout and a specialized tongue which it uses to catch its insect prey at a great speed. Echidna lays eggs and as a mammal, this is highly unusual. The Platypus is the only other mammal that does the same. Female echidnas lay one egg a year and the mating period is the only time the otherwise solitary animal meet one another. The male has no further contact with the female or his offspring after mating. A young echidna is the size of a grape but grows rapidly on its mother's milk, which is very rich in nutrients. Baby echidnas (puggles) eventually grow too large and spiky to stay in the pouch and, at around six months of age, they leave the burrow and have no more contact with their mothers.





To make this day complete another Koala seen in a tree. This time actively feeding.







And just as we are about to leave several Emu's arrive to wish us farewell! This place is a wildlife haven because we also saw Fairy Wrens and a small cave filled with Honey bees and wax. Never have I seen the likes of that before.





Fledgling Fairy Wren

Saturday, 26 November 2016

Can he fix it? Yes he can!

Saturday 26th
All I can say is so glad I have a man that can. A trip to the DIY store to purchase duck tape, silicone and screwdriver, 2 hours later a finer bodge job I have yet to see. He is pretty certain that his repair is watertight but only a trip along a rain-soaked road will find that out.



Plenty of duck tape over the broken bits which we salvaged from the roadside.



Rubber matting supplied by the caravan sales place.


Inside the cupboard. Wheel arch rebuilt using the existing foam moulding.
Worry over, for now, we had time to head for the shops. Not our favourite pastime but a necessary evil nevertheless as I stupidly left my cardigan, joggers, and PJ's hanging on the back of a shower door several days ago. No chance of retrieving them as the caravan site was several 100 km back along the Ocean Road. But good news, there is a shop called Kmart, bit like our Asda but without the grocery section, and I was able to purchase a nightie and joggers for around $14. A cardigan was purchased for the princely sum of $1 from an Opportunity shop. (Charity shop). Then we came across a Dan Murphy's, a really, really cheap beer and wine shop. I bought a 5 Litre....yes 5 Litre box of Coolabah red wine for $12.99 about £8.50p!!!!!! Now that is my kind of shop! Another 48 bottles of Tooley's dark ale beer for Ian and we are set for the next couple of weeks. Finally had a chance for a bit of sightseeing. Hopkins Falls had been recommended but finding them was another matter. Somehow we missed the sign and ended up doing nearly 25 km in the wrong direction. After realising our mistake and very nearly giving up, by chance I saw a very small sign on the opposite side of the road directing tourists up a side road. An about-turn and 11 km later we found the falls.





So a shorter post than normal and the only wildlife sightings were of a Whistling Kite and I had the camera on the wrong settings. They all came out blurred!. We are staying another day in Warrnambool to go to Tower Hill wildlife reserve and Port Fairy. More on that tomorrow.

Friday, 25 November 2016

Oops or should that be........ Oh Sh*t!

Thursday 24th
It rained again last night and it's still blooming cold at only 8°. Definitely not shorts weather although Ian refuses to put on long trousers or wear a jumper! In the Aussie meteorological calendar summer starts next week!!!!! I'm beginning to think the UK's winter has followed us here. But the sun did come out when we headed off to the Apostles by 9am and what a difference a day made. No hordes of tourists, buses hadn't started to arrive and only a few hardened early risers were out to admire the view.



12 Apostles


Back to hitch up the van by 10am, last-minute checks of the lights and make sure all windows and doors shut, and we were once again on our way. Lots more of the coastline to see on the 60 km to Warrnambool, so we stopped often. Luckily most of the lay-bys are caravan friendly so pulling in wasn't a problem.


This is called London Bridge. An arch made up the bridge until it collapsed in 1990 unexpectedly on 15 January leaving two tourists (Kelli Harrison and David Darrington) stranded on the outer span before being rescued by helicopter.  No one was injured in the event.   
Photo from Wikimedia





The Grotto

Bay of Martyrs
The Ocean road heads inland after the Bay of Islands, long straight flat roads towards all the way to Warrnambool. It was on one of these sections that Ian heard a strange rumbling sound. Slowing down suddenly the car juddered and the caravan became a dead weight. We stopped rather suddenly and rushing out of the car found this.....




 Oh 'eck....now what do we do. Ian phoned Michael the owner of the van, who gave some sound advice. Try to jack the van up and pray that it was just the bolts that had come loose and not something more serious. The wheel could then be put back, and we could at least get ourselves to a caravan repairer in town. In the meantime, we had a night in shining armour turn up. He, too, was on holiday with his family, passed us, seen our plight and turned round to try and help. He had all the tools needed to get the wheel back on. and yes it was the bolts that had come loose. I was convinced it was all those potholes in the road that had caused this but our Samaritan thought otherwise. Whoever gave the van a once-over hadn't checked to see if the wheel nuts were tight and, over time, they had loosened causing them to come undone. Would you believe that all 5 bolts were caught in the wheel trim! Without those, we would have been stuffed. But that isn't the end of our trouble. The wheel had damaged the wheel arch liner and there was a big hole straight through to the cupboard housing all the pots and pans. No utensils lost but there was now nothing to stop the spray from the road getting into the wood. Having got the wheel back on, offered our Samaritan 2 bottles of beer as a thank you, we limped into Warrnambool. At the garage, all they could do was patch up the hole with some plastic. Not brilliant as he attached the plastic sheet to the inside rather than the outside. We may have to buy tape and silicone to do the job properly or....don't travel if it rains! As for the bolts...they need replacing because some have been damaged but this caravan is a European model and the Aussies don't have those in stock. So it may well be that Ian has to check the bolts every time we travel.








We had the tyre changed as well. Cost us  $75 but the good news is Michael will pay us back. Think we may stay on this Holiday Village site in town for a few days to recover from the shock.

And wildlife,

Long Billed Corella




Singing Honeyeater

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