Wild Atlantic Way and a lost Lab

Where had the sun gone? Since arriving in Ireland 11 days ago we have had almost wall to wall sunshine. This morning we woke to grey skies with mizzle in the air. Got away much earlier than normal as we suddenly realised that almost 2 weeks have gone by and we have only travelled 460 miles. At this rate parts of Northern Ireland may be out of the question.

So another decision made. Let's do the Wild Atlantic Way. 1,500 miles along the West Coast of Ireland starting South at Kinsale and finishing North at Malin Head. Some we have already done (the Ring of Kerry is part of it) and we do still want to go Dingle. Some sidetracking will also be on the cards no doubt.

Grey skies this morning

But by mid-afternoon, there was a considerable improvement. 

Love this idea. Countdown from when first turned red to green.

Our starting point for the Atlantic way was at Glengarriff. To go to the furthest point West on the Ring of Beara meant a slightly terrifying trip to the point. Showing on the map as an R road (the Beast can travel these roads) both of us were horrified when the road got narrower and narrower. Then the one thing I had been dreading happened. Another motorhome travelling towards us.

We were lucky that a convenient passing place was directly opposite so with us all breathing in just about managed to squeeze past. Next few photos show of the road we had to travel.

The R road. Not many vehicles travel along this route, thank goodness.

At the furthest point was a car park with a cable car to Dursey Island. Managed to turn the Beast okay and then walked to see if it was worth taking the cable car to the island. For €20 we decided to give it a miss especially as walking to a church and tower seemed to be the only things to do.

Dursey Island

Time was getting on so looking for a place to park for the night was high on our priority list. On route, we went through some small towns and admired the highly coloured houses.

And talking about colours....ever seen a blue sheep?

At a place called Kilmakilloge viewpoint, the app Ian had on his phone 'where to park for the night' showed to motorhome places available. We arrived before anyone else so had the pick of the spot. Soon after several more tried to come in but only one managed the second spot.

Went for a walk along the pebbled beach and Ian reverted back to his childhood by skimming stones trying ever harder to beat his measly two bounces. He failed miserably

Back at the Beast, a kettle was on when a loud panting brought our attention to outside the van. A yellow Lab had wondered down. Quite an old Lab by all appearance, limping badly and without a collar. Looking for a suitable container to give it a drink, the Lab headed back in the direction it came. "Must be a local dog" thought I. But not 5 minutes later it was back. This time the dog excepted the offering of water and because I was so concerned, walked to the nearest house to see if anyone knew who it belonged to. Unfortunately, I drew a blank but was given the number of the local pub in case it had been reported missing. But before we had a chance to phone the pub, the Lab without a backward glance walked back along the track. So far it has not returned but with the road being quite narrow I fear for its life.

And a few wildlife at the viewing point.

Bootlegger Molly

I was that surprised last night. BBQ lit and the wine free flowing and suddenly realised the river had risen by at least 2 ft! Then the penny dropped. So near to Kenmare Bay and the Atlantic Sea that this river was tidal. And the fish!!! OMG, what I would have given for a rod and line. I watched one chap from another motorhome cast out time and time again to no avail. The spinner he was using was not what these fish were after. Then a fellow turns up looking very official and asks about this chaps fishing licence.  Oh dear, none was to be had so he was told to stop fishing immediately or a fine would be issued. One thing I did find out was the river contained not only trout and salmon but mullet as well.

 We took another excursion off the Ring of Kerry. This time on another N road and on to the Ring of Beara. We rather fancied going to Bonane and the Heritage Park. Full of Druid history it was a 'must see' on one of our tourist guides. What it failed to inform us was the road width. OMG, another L road and this time there was grass growing down the middle.

2 nail-biting km later and not meeting a single vehicle we arrived at the park.

To walk the 2km around this historic site we parted with another €8 but it was worth it for the sheer peace and tranquillity of the place. Of particular interest was the Stone Circle. To read about the significance of the circle click here  Many other Druid features were scattered around the walk.

 On arrival back to the kiosk, the ranger told us of another Ballaun stone at a burial site called Feaghna. Another 2km walk back along the road but which was again unsuitable for the Beast. So we decided to walk to it. And walk we did...on and on and on. Did we find it? Did we 'eck! Such a shame because this stone is said to have 8 depressions to match the constellation of Orion. To see what we missed click here 
By 13.30 we were back at the Beast for a late lunch. Next stop was a place called Molly Gallivans Traditional Farm. She was made famous because of her 'bootlegging' ways. Brewed a very potent whisky made from potatoes. The date was in the 1840's. Widowed with seven small children, Molly Gallivan had to call on all her resourcefulness to keep body and soul together.
She supplemented her meagre income from her small mountain farm by opening a “Sibheen” (illegal pub). Here she sold her own home made “Poitín” (whiskey) locally known as “Molly’s Mountain Dew”. (exert from the history of Molly Gallivan)
The place has a shop filled to capacity with Irish gifts and woollens, and next door the place has been left as was in Molly's day. A walk around the farm was also on offer which we excepted without hesitation.

This Druid was carved from an Oak recently

Molly Gallivan's Traditional Farm.

Some of what is offered in the shop

Inside the house.

Still a working Farm

Some of the agricultural implements used in Molly's day.

Peat Bog

Another wonderful site found overlooking a valley. Such a big fan of this wild camping malarky.

Our view from the cab window.

And wildlife,

The Ring of Kerry

Another warm and sunny day ahead, just the ticket for travelling anti-clockwise around the ring. Parts of the roads were very narrow so we had been warned that meeting oncoming coaches may present problems. The advice was 'Go the same direction as the coaches'. This we did and it worked to our advantage.

Yep, the lorries and local bus all go both ways.

 We did try one excursion down to Kell Harbour and wished we hadn't. It was an L road,(R roads and M roads are wide enough for the Beast) good enough for a car but with a big Beast like ours, we struggled somewhat to get past oncoming vehicles. And when we reached the harbour the car park was full and trying to turn was interesting! Anyway, Ian managed only because I was standing at the rear giving hand signals every time he got to close to the parked cars.

Having gone nearly three-quarters of the way around a fabulous spot was found to stop for the night at a place called Sneem. Right by the river and we were told of it by another motorhome owner. A very popular spot by all accounts as the place is almost full. At €10 a night it's not a bad location and the fact there is grey water emptying and fresh water on site is a bonus.There were a couple of signs on the road directing us to it but when push came to shove we missed the turn altogether. Once again trying to turn the Beast around was challenging but thank goodness the road was quiet when the attempt was made. So photos of some of the spectacular views to be had.